7 Things Only Surfers Understand
If you are a surfer - beginner, intermediate or advanced - you know that there a a few things only a surfer understands: From the awe induced by watching the water to the testing of a new spot - here are 7 things that define our relation ship to surfing.
1. The exhilaration of catching your first wave of the day
When you first paddle out, your hands cupped as they splash against the water's surface, you are initially smacked with the revitalizing salt water. Maybe it takes you a few minutes to scope out the waves, or maybe the perfect swell comes just seconds after you hopped into the ocean, but the resulting feeling of catching your first wave is unparalleled. As you glide across the water, your hand skimming the wall of the wave, you become one with the ocean and you feel proud and humbled simultaneously.
2. The exhaustion after hours in the sea
It's a good kind of tired; the type that makes you feel accomplished. As you cuddle up in a dry towel, your wetsuit still halfway on, you yawn with satisfaction, the aftertaste of the ocean still fresh on your tongue.
3. The humbling tumult of a mild wipe-out
Getting a mouthful of seaweed isn't as bad as it sounds. You might somersault a little along the ocean floor as the wave rolls on without you, but as long as you're not seriously injured, it's just light embarrassment that your buddies tease you for when you get back to the line-up.
4. The awe induced by watching the water
Even from the shore, the waves are striking. You admire the pattern of the sea, counting seconds between sets and marveling at the surfers. There's no chair more comfortable than a towel dampened by sand.
5. The excitement of testing out a new spot
Surfing instills one with an innate sense of wanderlust. And when you get the chance to hit up some famous breaks, you're eager to hit the water ASAP.
6. The fine line of between fear and ambition
The vast, dark, deep ocean is intimidating. As the sun sparkles against the infinite ripples and glints with the multitude of possibilities encapsulated in every wave, you feel fear and ambition swirl together. You're anchored to the ocean, and no matter how daunting its immensity may seem, you trust the ocean and aspire to melt into the saltwater under the glare of a summer sun.
7. The intimate relationship between surfer and sea
Like any relationship, the formation -- the love -- between surfer and sea takes commitment. If no one else is, the ocean will always be there for you. Its loyalty is undying.